I'd give myself a C+ on this one. It would have been a B- if I'd gotten the side bodice seams exactly right. I made it exactly as instructed, except I shortened the skirt to fall at mid-knee length (the photos below were taken before the skirt was hemmed).
The brown color goes nicely with a number of jackets and vests I already own, and I need more dresses. So this was a good choice as far as my overall wardrobe. The color would have been great for me when my hair was dark reddish-brown. Now that my hair is gray, I'm not so sure. I probably look better now in greens, blues, and grays.
This dress was easy to make. The only part I found difficult was sewing the shoulder seams. The instruction sheet that came with the pattern directed one to sew the bodice lining to the outer shell, leaving the shoulder seams and part of the armhole edges open. After the lining and shell were attached, one was to turn the lining out and sew the shoulder seam for the lining and shell in one continuous seam. The hand-stitch the remaining open part of the armhole edges. It worked OK, but I have to wonder if maybe there's a better way.
The dress is quite figure-flattering and comfortable. Here are the things I learned while making this dress:
1. I should consider linen-rayon blends in the future rather than 100% linen when making dresses or skirts. I can't think of any way to keep linen skirts from wrinkling badly when one sits down in them.
2. Even though a garment fits perfectly when made in a test fabric, I should try the "real" garment on as I'm making it. The cotton test fabric version of this dress fit perfectly, but the final version would look better with each of the side seams of the bodice taken in about 1/4 inch. It's not bad enough to rip it apart and re-do it at this point, but it would have been a very easy problem to fix if I'd tried on the bodice before attaching the lining and skirt.
3. Cotton poplin is not the best lining fabric for linen. Cotton lawn or non-slippery rayon would have been a better choice.