Sunday, August 28, 2011

Butterick 5567 Again

This is the same pattern I used for the cotton jacket http://sewingbrain.blogspot.com/

This time I used a fabric that Fabric.com identified as "light weight silk suiting." It looks and feels (to my novice eyes and hands) like silk dupioni. It was on sale for $3.99. I don't know why it was selling for such a low price, unless stripes in those colors are unfashionable. I think the fabric is lovely. It reminds me of a honey bee.

Anyhow, it was exactly what I was looking for: an inexpensive fabric I could use to learn what it's like to make something from silk fabric.

For the lining I used Ambiance Bemberg rayon bought from Vogue Fabrics online.

The silk fabric was very easy to work with, except that I had to be careful not to stretch it. But the rayon was truly challenging. Very slippery! This will make it perfect for a lining, but it's kind of like trying to sew water.

Before attempting to cut it out, I read some online tutorials. My favorite is Sandra Betzina's video, Mastering Silk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijz_j7UXOik  I love her book Power Sewing and have now ordered Fabric Savvy.  I put paper under the fabric to keep it from slipping while I was cutting it, and also used tissue paper under the seams as I was sewing them. This worked quite well, both for cutting and sewing. After sewing the seam, you tear off the paper. It comes away readily with no damage to the seam.

The pattern has square corners at the bottom of the front. On one of the front pieces, I experimented to see what it would look like with rounded corners. Having one square and one rounded corner makes the front of the jacket look a bit weird, unless I wear it closed. I made it to wear over the linen jersey dress that stretched and ended up too big on top. I think it may actually look better with a dark brown dress I'm planning to make after I do one more of these jackets with yet another silk fabric.


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